Tuesday, December 4, 2007

The Long and Winding Road...

...to Pai. We made the trip to Pai today via minibus with 10 other people. It was a truly epic journey. We fought off countless foes, weaved through mountain and jungle, and escaped deftly from the reaches of evil. Though our bodies were broken, our spirits were not and we prevailed against the journey's numerous and extensive challenges.

Warning: the following story is graphic in nature. Please be advised and only read on if you are prepared to handle the grossness. I am not holding anything back - and that is not a pun.

Ok, the real story. Our tour book warned us of a "windy" road, as in very curvy, not like has lots of wind. And it was right! We drove for about a half hour on straight, regular roads out of Chiang Mai and then began our ascent up this monster mountain that was paved with the most gnarly curved road I have ever been on. Fortunately, our driver has driven this road before, and was extremely practiced - nay an expert - on driving as fast and jerky as possible. This is a 5 speed manual transmission Toyota minivan and he worked it to it's limit driving it like a race car. I start to get carsick just after 11am. We had left at 9:45, so I had been doing well, but we were still not even halfway there. Just before I was going to ask the driver to pull over, we stopped for a break at a rest stop. We rested for about 20 minutes, but I knew I was in trouble. Kane was feeling badly too, but he was doing better that I was - though he sympathizes since he is typically very prone to motion sickness as well.

So we get back in the car and keep going at lightening speeds around countless miles of curved road. The people behind me are actually reading books. It is unfathomable to me how anyone cannot get sick on this road in these conditions, much less read a book. So unfair. Probably 10 minutes later I decide that I need to pull over. What I didn't know (and I wish they had told me), is the procedure for throwing up on the bus. We don't stop. I assume that's because if we did, we would have been an hour or more late to our destination because one other lady and I were not doing well. There are little plastic bags for you to throw up in, similar to the ones on an airplane. I did not know of these little bags and one was only handed to me after I had thrown up in my own two hands - the only container I had available at the time. Kane opens the window and I toss the contents out, spilling a drop on my jeans and a few onto the inside of the door. Yeah, souvenirs. I hang my dripping hands out of the window until we actually do pull over (the driver asked "do you still want to pull over?", I wanted to hit him) at which point I rinse my hands with water. Water does not get barf off your hands, just to let you know. It gets the three dimensional chunks off when your rub your hands together, but there is still a nice film of sick on you and it smells like hell. I told you I was going to be graphic, it makes me feel better about it. And you know, I figure, how often do you barf on yourself in your lifetime, right? Probably once, maybe twice if you're lucky? I see it as having a once in a lifetime experience.

So, we continue on, and I am really hoping that I haven't offended anyone too badly with the display and the smell, etc. I can't decide what's better: to lie back with my eyes closed or try futilely to watch the road ahead from the 2nd row of seats. I try both, neither works. Kane is watching the road intently from the front row, unable to take his eyes off the road lest he get sick. I proceed to throw up 3 more times into little plastic bags, which Kane took from me each time and held onto until his hands cramped and we arrived in Pai. At least the bags held. I can remember one of the times I'm dry heaving into a plastic bag (I'm actually laughing as I write this because it's so ridiculous) as we are passing a big rig on the wrong side of the road around a 180 degree turn at like 35 miles an hour. It was like a goddamn roller coaster. I don't think I've ever felt so motion sick in my life.

Which got me thinking of all the times I've been motion sick. There have been countless mild carsick rides where my stomach hurts and it takes a half hour to shake off. I have yacked up Ramen noodles on Old Priest Grade going up to my Grandpa's cabin. I had to sit with my head down on a table for hours on a fishing boat with Yolanda. Then there's the fair rides: the teacups, the ferris wheel on crack that goes horizontally, and the spaceship. The spaceship is one that is especially close to my heart - this is the ride that places like Great America and Six Flags have too much dignity to offer; you will only find it at the county fair. It's a circular metal saucer that has walls bowed out on the inside that you lean against while the thing spins like a washing machine. The centripetal force squishes you to the exterior of the spaceship to the point where you can't even raise an arm or leg. Fun but requires some serious recovery time. Anyway, those were some of my millions of thoughts during this endeavor.

What actually bothers me most about being carsick is not the sickness itself, which in my case, can't really be avoided. It's not being able to barf on your own terms. When you're sick, you want to take care of it with as much dignity and as little mess as possible. I want to pull over, take some time, get some air, wash our my mouth, then continue on. I was quickly re-prioritizing after I realized that this was not going to happen, like you do when there's an emergency. First you're concerned about normal things like how you don't want to get messy and how you should conceal yourself from others to save them and your own dignity. By the end I was considering wiping my mouth and hands on my sweatshirt and I could basically not care less about the poor guy next to me as I heaved my final round in plain sight. I'm really looking forward to the return trip on Thursday...

We arrive in Pai at 1pm and sit for about a half an hour trying to gather ourselves. I dump the bags of barf in the bathroom and wash my hands with soap - thank god. Kane is shaking and I am exhausted. Welcome to Pai, it better be a goddamn paradise.

9 comments:

Daddyo said...

OH MY GOD!!!! YUK!! You are such a good writer, I was getting motion sick just reading your story. My poor baby! Evil taxi driver bastard! Slow down ya asshole!! If I was there, I would be right next to you having a barfing contest with you. (the driver asked "do you still want to pull over?", I wanted to hit him) - hit him?! You shoulda puked on him! I hope Pai is incredible and gorgeous so it can be somewhat worth the hell ride. Kane, if you can hold onto Angie's BAGS OF BARF and help her through that ordeal, I know you are definitely the right guy for her. You da man! Thank you for taking good care of my baby. How did you manage not to hurl? I feel sorry for you guys that you have to do it again to get back to the next place since you know what's in store. Any dramamine available there anywhere?
On a more pleasant note, I got the snapfish pics you sent. Awesome shots of the elaborate architecture there. And all those fancy and pretty lanterns are really neat. I hope you recover quickly and have a nice time there. Good luck with the journey back down the mountain. Stay safe. I love you.

Chris said...

Okay, seriously, that sounded beyond awful. That's a good "you know you're in a 3rd world country when the driver asks if you still want to pull over".

Have you read "sex lives of cannibals"? Apparently the first scene is equally gross, although for very different reasons.

Here's hoping Pai is amazing.

ashlandmom said...

Angie... all I can say is yikes!! It was not a pretty picture you painted. Bus trips into the mountains of third world countries have made the travel logs of many courageous tourist. You were so graphic, I was right there with you...green and full of bile. I am very proud of my "keeper of the barf" son...I can't imagine he did not hurl also. Pai better be fabulous beyond mention. At least you know what to expect coming down. See if you can get your hands on some ginger. Swill a bunch of it down before you leave.

Angie the Snapfish photo's were outrageously wonderful. I loved the temples, the bhudda'a and the architecture. It is all so incredibly detailed and rich.
Rhonda

Angie said...

Thanks for the sympathy guys, glad you somewhat enjoyed my depiction...Pai is nice, but it's too bad we're only here 2 nights. We will get some ginger tea before getting on that bus tomorrow, see if that helps. Thanks for the comments guys.

Unknown said...

Now the question is now that you have toughed it through the worst will it ever be as bad again? For the sake of all the other passengers I hope not. Yacking is definitly something done communally. One goes, all go. Congrats to Kane for holding his chunks!

Unknown said...

Good times. That reminded me of two stories.

I went on a few road trips while I was in New Zealand. One of them was with England's craziest driver. I don't remember how many big mountains we had to zig-zag over, I just know that they didn't slow us down. This guy went the same speed on open flat highway as he did going up these switch backs. And lanes, those didn't really exist in his mind. Given, you never see anyone else on the road, but I'd rather not go 55 mph around blind curve in the wrong lane. I held it together for that trip...barely.

The other was my trip to Mammoth last year. Yeah, there's nothing quite like puking in your hands...at 2:00 am...at a cabin that you were invited to...that is actually owned by your friend's boss! Go me.

Hope the travels back down treat you better. Maybe you'll get a sane driver.

Mom said...

Angie is fine, but food poisoning is why we have not heard from her. Kane decided that after a long and severe bout of vomiting, she needed to go to the hospital. She was dehydrated & put in an I.V. Last I heard, she had been there 12 or 15 hours. I don't know how much longer she stayed/will stay. Poor baby. This occurred after the long and winding road back to (Chiang Mai?), which was apparently more pleasant than the first. Kane is taking fantastic care of her, not leaving her side in the hospital except to go to the nearest computer place and call about her condition. I am sure she is doing better now and we will hear from her soon.

Chris said...

I'm so sorry Angie. I hope you're getting great care for your illness at whatever hospital you're at.

Feel better soon, wish there was more to do to help!

Chris

PS- Kane, I hope the food in the hospital is good!

Daddyo said...

My poor little Angie! Kane called me last night to advise me of Angie's condition. Scared me quite a bit when he told me she was in the hospital on an I.V. But, he said the hospital is a very good one and she was improving. I am very grateful to Kane for being such a good protector and making the smart call to take her to the hospital. As neat and pretty as some of the things you guys have experienced there are, I am relieved that you will only be there another week. I think the food in Australia will be much safer in general. Poor Angie suffering food poisoning twice and the bus ride from hell is more misery than you should experience in one month. Your poor stomach. Well, I hope your last week there is enjoyable and trouble free. I will be very happy to see you on the blog here again, Angie, so we can all know you are back to normal. Be safe and healthy! I love you guys!